Shoulderslip Hi-c and snap-reaction shot with Rowe

Today with Rowe we worked 2 new techniques. The first was baiting the opponent into snapping down a post and shooting off of his snap. We let him snap once and don’t shoot, then shoot on the second snap. The post doesn’t have to be a hard post, it’s more of a keeping distance post. When he snaps, anticipate the snap and bring your arm down and back with his snap. Don’t be stiff and don’t let his snap determine where your arm goes — take control of it before/as he’s snapping. After the first snap, if there is separation, give a fake/stutter. The shot can be a double with the head in the middle or a knee pull to either side.

Handfighting here: we want to isolate the post/snap side. Keep the right hand ready to shoot, which will usually mean clearing things with that hand. If he collar ties the opposite side, push it over/duck head under. If he is overtie posting hard, snap, club and steer. If he is draping, just drop the post and threaten an angle (or use Wissel’s shot from him digging a draping overtie).

The second shot we worked was from blocking off an underhook. Keep the head down in the pocket, punch the rib away, and go inside the thigh with the overhook arm and circle to it. This will open up a lot of space to shoot into.

Come back to the elbow, NOT THE TRICEP and set the feet. Create a lot of tension by starting to pull hips forward and shoulders back, while staying on your toes. DO NOT turn your shoulders and DO NOT let the overhook arm flare up and away. Keep the pull on the arm compact, it should slide out naturally. Do not penetrate, just knee drop. Shoot close to head-on so that it is easier to cut the corner or Iranian. Keep the shot arm high and curled, not snaked.

Handfighting with Wiss, pt. 2

After a few days of working on Wiss’ stuff, here are some add-ins and extra points of emphasis.

When getting to an angle, make sure to chase the leg every time. Even when drilling or handfighting, at least keep the leg within a short arms reach and direct your momentum in that direction.

Other points of emphasis included continuing to tie sets and motions together, establishing timing, and reacting correctly to different feels.

When a large step is taken, like the swim move shot in Handfightint with Wiss, replace the foot lunging with the back foot to stay in an athletic position.

The shoulder blade anchor worked well but was slowed down with a long overtie. When an opponent overties, drop the anchor and come to a heavy club and/or steer with the other hand. From there, fakes, snaps, posts, and passes are available. The possibility of a RH post on the overtie to a LF low single on the same side is in the back of my mind, similar to an underhook throw-by low single.

New Stuff:

Start with a collar tie. When your opponent begins to dig an overtie, release the overtie and swim it past. It is more of a “disappear” than a swim/post/pass. In other words, use his own effort digging in to bring his weight over the top. Depending on head position and your opponent’s lead leg, this can lead to a double, hi-c, or knee pull. The motion has to be an immediate reaction. This should become automatic in order for it to work.

My favorite shot with this setup, the double

Hi-c underneath with head on opposite side

Standard hi-c

Handfighting with Wiss

We worked on clearing elbow control, clearing posts, and using a shoulder blade anchor. In each case, there is emphasis on timing and on changing speeds.

Clearing Elbow Control

When you have inside control and your opponent gets elbow control, clear the tie by flexing lat hard, weighing the elbow down and in, and passing the elbow. The lat is the key; try to pull your elbow into your side. Once the elbow is passed, get a two-handed baseball grip on the upper arm.

Weight the elbow down until you can pass it

If your opponent has elbow control on your other side, v-block in the elbow or post the shoulder and drop your head under to the other side, and then pass the elbow the same way as before.

Switch sides and clear elbow

In both cases, the emphasis is in using your lat to make him feel uncomfortable and staying close once the elbow is passed.

Clearing Posts

The first way we worked on clearing posts was by getting to a russian tie or a baseball grip tie, both self explanatory.

Clear post with Russian or baseball tie

The next way was to push his post up. Not popping it up, but pushing it forward and up into his face. This is not a setup, but a way to make him uncomfortable and force a new tie.

Drive elbow(s) up and in

If his post is an overtie on your collar tie, swim your elbow up and back to clear the tie while stepping in and threatening a high-level leg attack. The shot may be there, or it may just force a new tie. The swim should be quick. This is an example of changing speeds to make your opponent uncomfortable.

Swim elbow to high leg attack or fake (FAST!)

Shoulderblade Anchor

Lastly, we worked with a shoulderblade anchor. It is a good place to get a good pull from and is easy to transition to a collar tie or inside control from. After the initial pull, it is important to feel what your opponent gives you. If he tightens up on the side opposite of your anchor or goes to a collar tie on the opposite side, steer. The steer should be a speed change.

Steer if he tightens up on the opposite side

If he is tight on the side you have the anchor, simultaneously pass the opposite side elbow and drop the anchor to inside control will getting to an angle on the opposite side. His arms should end up bundled. Pick your speed up to snatch both arms and get to the angle

Pass and bundle the arms if he tightens up on the anchor side

Lastly, if he comes to post on the side opposite the anchor, and you have that leg forward, v-block his elbow on his post arm to a duck under

Post elbow to a duck